The Rain Has Lifted, Time To Do Some Work On The Camper - Reinforcing The Walls

The last number of weeks have been getting pretty crazy weather, but today for the first time the rain finally lifted. It was time to get down to reinforcing the walls. The bad weather managed to pull apart some of the frame that was head together with 1 inch L brackets and also pull a bungee chord apart (they did only cost 1.49 each though so i'm not too sure about the quality). I first started off by removing those brackets and upgrading them to the 2 inch brackets. It was not because of choice I started with the 1 inch brackets, I just happened to run out of anything bigger.

I went to the shop, and picked up 40 of the 2inch brackets, and 40 of the one inch brackets just to have by chance I need them further down the line. Nothing is worse than starting the job to realize that you don't have what you need.

In the picture below you can see some of the brackets I was left with after today, along with the Makita drill that was given to me as a present over Christmas. This drill came with the usual spare battery that can be charged while you are using the other battery. And today, like every other time while working my battery did go flat and a jump to the other battery was needed.

Below you can see what the corners look like, they are 2x2 inch batons that are held together with the brackets using 4x40mm screws. Turned out quite well.

A side profile of the camper to date so far. You can see on the front left corner, there is a bit of wood connecting the left panel and the front right of the camper. This is to hold the entire frame together during the next few weeks, which will no doubt be windy again.

In the very middle of the camper, I added a sort of T-shape piece of wood. What is this little guy for? The job is pretty simple, just like a circus tent, the leg in the middle holds the tarp up, stopping water from collecting in the middle of the tarp. The big pools of water that were seen earlier in the blog are avoided this time!

The picture below shows a floor view of the camper to date so far.

The over all frame is now in place, and nicely secure. Now the interesting bits such as the curved edges which will be made from MDF can be added. The camper will stop looking like a box and more like the camper that I have in my mind.

Although the frame has come together will, some work will still be needed to affix the frame to the cross members (bit 4x3 inch wood at the chassis level) that were put in place earlier on. This is a job for a day when it is less windy, and the sprit level can come out to make sure everything is level!

Winterizing Your Camper - Some Thoughts On Keeping Your Camper Warm

When starting a camper project from the very beginning, the conditions that the camper will be used in need to be considered. In the US, the temperature can go from sweating hot, to bone chattering cold between seasons. Here in the west of Europe, things are a little different.

We quite often get a middle range of temperatures, things never get too hot, or really go too cold. So an approach to this needs to be taken during the construction process of the camper.

Typically campers here do not have very thick walls. The same can be said for most vans and campervans that are currently on the market today. They are usually created for the good seasons, as people rarely go out on holiday in the winter months. But some people do!

The insulation in the camper can then suddenly be inadequate and warm days suddenly come with really cold nights. Preventing this from happening needed a lot of thought.

At the moment, the walls in the camper are currently pegged at being about two inches thick. This will give plenty of space for a two inch thick insulation, or 50mm for us European people, to be added in.

One of the recent advents in the insulation world was creation of polyiso insulation, or "rigid foam" as it is often known.

Unlike polystyrene insulation (the white stuff) you would have seen used throughout the 80's and 90's, polyiso insulation is denser and often covered in a foil film offering better insulation. To ensure a good seal, a foil type tape is available to seal up the gaps.

Where Your Camper Loses Heat

People often wonder about campers and where all of the heat is really lost. It can be seen from a number of different angles. Below is a breakdown of where your heat goes!

1. The floor of an RV or a camper is often made from some wood or floor pan sheet metal that has been added to the chassis frame. In a lot of cases, that is really it! Although heat rises, a cold floor can quite quickly turn your hot air into cold cold air.
   
   By insulating the floor, we can reduce the risk of losing heat out of the floor. The wind gap underneath the camper or RV is also an issue. Because the floor is raised up and a gap of anywhere between 10-14 inches is there, cold air can easily flow in under the camper. To prevent this draught from happening, people have often moved towards the idea of creating a skirt around the camper. This can stop the flow of cold air under the camper.
2. The roof of the camper again, like the walls needs to be insulated. If all the hot air is hitting your roof, you need to ensure that it is not a cold metal surface that can turn your expensive hot air into cold air.
3. Windows and doors although useful during the day if left open at night can becoming gaping air holes allowing all your precious hot air to flow out. Do not block up your vents however, they are needed for safety!

Heater Strips
If you have external water sources, one product that is on the market are heater strips designed to go around your pipes. They require a very low voltage and keep your pipes just above freezing to keep the water flowing, preventing cracks and leaks.

This solution however, can be costly to power if you are running on a solar rig.



In conclusion, as soon as the camper outside plywood has been added, it is insulation time!


A nice comparison of insulations can be found here
For a little bit more about polyiso insulation, check out here

Adding The Floor Into The Camper

Given the very simple blueprint that was drawn up, the next step was the floor. With a bad floor, the whole camper would pretty much come apart over time, so a little bit of thought was needed to ensure the maximum strength was in it.

A width of 2 meters, which is about 6ft 6 inches are decided for the total width of the camper. This means that no matter what happens, we can never exceed this. There was a few little tricky bits along the way that are often forgotten about during the design phase. The most important of these was where the wheels and the axels come into play with the floor. Room needed to be available so the wheels can be added and removed easily from the axels, without interfering with the floor or the wall panels.

Nine cross members, created from 2x3 inch rough finish wood were added into the floor, which were spaced roughly 14 inches apart. Whenever a piece of floor steel was available, that was where the cross member went in. Between these extra bits were added between them to stitch them all together.

In the picture above you can see a length of wood down the left side, which was added as a temporary measure to hold the whole frame together as all of the extra stitching pieces were added. The zig zag formation was added to avoid allow the extra ends of the cross members to be trimmed off where needed to make space for the wood. At the very front of the frame, and at the very end, perfect triangles can be seen as no obstructions were in place preventing them from being joined.

What To Do With A Rusted Trailer - How Not To Throw It Away

Once all the wood had been removed, we were then left with a rusted metal frame. By rust I mean rust. Not that it had holes in it, that would be pretty unsafe, but it did have a good film of rust that could pose as paint if you looked at it from the right angle.

Something had to be done about the rust...

I first attempted to use a brass bristle brush, which is put into an electric drill. After a good few combs across the surface and very little of the rust removed (more just of the paint removed). I knew it was time to move into the bigger guns.

My personal motto when it comes to DIY has always been "when in doubt, get the angle grinder out" and in this case it was no exception. With a grinder, a collection of grinding disks, mask, eye protection (no way I ever want to go blind from my own stupidity as getting metal filings in me eyes) and I got down to it.

The cycle can be seen as:

• Grind
• Grind more
• Grind even more
• Have a cup of tea
• Grind more

One this was done, I would then clean up the area with a rag to get as much of the surface dust off as possible and get it ready for a bit of paint.

Their was one night however, where due to rain I left some of the metal bare. Anyone with metal working experience would know that:

Bare Metal + time = Rust

So once again, the cycle needed to be repeated to get the last layer of rust off and it was time to get down to it with some red oxide paint (i've been told will keep the rust from getting to out of control). Nice thick paint, that takes the metal very well.

A strong contrast can be seen between the old rusted bits which have not been grinded and the new grinded+painted sections.

 The picture below, shows the whole metal frame really looking well. The left and right horizontal metal frame sections were actually galvanized, so no major work was needed on them.

The one thing you may have seen is that the wheel are off the trailer.

Where did the wheels go?

As a sort of anti theft device, we took the four wheels off. I have not had much experience with old wheels on axels, as most of my time is spend with newer cars. Those wheels did NOT want to come off without a fight.

The frame was propped up on blocks, and the crowbar was once again brought out to show its service to the cause. After about an hour of oiling, with my favorite WD-40 and a lot of smacking and bending, they did eventually come off.


Who knows what is next!